Ganj’s own food story!

These food joints have been there and seen it all. Generations have changed but these places continue to tickle the taste buds of people, writes Deep Saxena

Benbows (now Changamal), Ranjana (Barista), Krishna (Prince market), Kayz Kozy Korner (new Bata), Silver Oak (model shop), Annapurna (Wajid Hussain Furnishers next to Sahu), Hong Kong (next to Chedilal) and Kwality Restaurant (Mayfair building) together form a list of food joints in the Hazratganj of yore. Although they do not exist today, they have been a part of the glorious past of the majestic Ganj.
These landmarks made way for a new generation with Chowdhury’s Sweets (1882), Capoor’s Hotel (1932) and Jone Hing (1948) becoming the new face of Ganj. Later, Royal Café (earlier on Halwasia Court), Moti Mahal, Marksman and Burma Bakery joined in and are now the very essence of Ganj today.
Hindustan Times takes you on a journey into the history of such food joints that have become synonymous with Hazratganj today.
Capoor’s Hotel
Established in 1932, this hotel has been a witness to the British era in the city.
“I remember my parents telling me that this was the favourite hotel of the British,” says Sanjay Capoor, grandson of founder HR Capoor. He further says, “During World War II, a number of British officials and army men used to come here. More importantly, the headquarters of the Royal British Air Force were also in Ganj. Therefore, a large number of British visited our hotel frequently.”
The restaurant of the hotel that now wears a plush-yet-traditional look then had a revolving bar. “During those days, the bar was open only from 12 noon to 2 pm and then from 6 pm to 11 pm. So, we had a hydraulic revolving bar. When the bar was shut, it used to revolve a 180 degree and its back side, which had a Belgium glass, used to be in the front,” he says. While those who could, enjoyed the luxury of Capoor’s Hotel, the aam-aadmi’s drinking place used to be China Bar (next to Kala Kunj), which had a caged fencing.
During those days, every Tuesday used to be a dry day and the bar would remain closed all day. Several Bollywood names including Mohd Rafi and Keshto Mukherjee have also been guests here. Besides, the hotel also finds its name in All The Prime Minister’s Men — a book on emergency by Janardan Misra.Capoor still remembers his parents telling him that after India achieved independence, they had booked an ear-panel advertisement in a Hindi daily. And now, being a part of the majestic Ganj has booked them a place in history.
Jone Hing
Established in 1936, Jone Hing was a shoe shop back then. Its owner Jude Yep recalls, “In those days, Bata was the only readymade shoe shop in Ganj and we specialised in ‘made to order’ service. We kept some sample shoes and customers used to come to us and place orders.” However, later, half the shop was converted into a beauty parlour.
“After London Beauty Parlour (beside Cheap House), which was also run by a Chinese family, ours was the second parlour which was a huge success. Today also, we have loyal customers who, in their third generation, still come to us.”
The parlour, which earlier covered an area of 100 sq ft, has been shifted to the first floor and is run by Yep’s wife Molly. “In 1972, we opened the Chinese Restaurant which was the city’s second exclusive joint after Samson (beside Capitol Cinema). Hong Kong came a few years after us. We received a lot of success as the young crowd flock at the restaurant,” recalls Yep.Yep also remembers that there were hardly any people who owned scooters or cars during those days. “That was the time when people used to stroll on the road and enjoyed ‘Ganjing’. Now, in this traffic, you can’t do that.” Now that the parlour space is vacant, Yep is expanding the restaurant. This will probably further strengthen his bond with the place that has seen Ganj grow.
King of Chaat
It is common to see groups of people at Arjun Tandon’s chaat shop near KD Singh Babu stadium, as chaat for Rs 18 is more than affordable for people of all classes. However, this was not the case in the 1950s when a ‘patta’ of chaat was priced at 2 anna (12 paisa). Back then, only the elite could afford to savour the delicacy at Arjun’s father SN Tandon’s chaat thela in front of Gangotri showroom.
“I remember my father telling me that not everyone could afford chaat during those days. Prices used to be at the premium in ganj and therefore, even chaat was beyond the reach of the common man. And those who could, they used to savour our chaat and then stroll in Ganj for hours. That was the time when people enjoyed Ganjing in the true sense,” says Arjun Tandon.
The shop was set up much before it came to Ganj. “In 1941, my grandfather, a freedom fighter, started this shop at Zoo gate in Narhi to keep away from the eyes of the British. It was only in 1951 that the thela came up in Ganj. This used to be the only chaat shop in the locality the others in city were Tiwari in Golaganj, one in Chowk and another at Aminabad,” says Tandon. The present location was awarded to them under a beautification scheme during the tenure of Hemvati Nandan Bahuguna as the chief minister in 1980.
Royal Cafe
Earlier located at Halwasia Court, Royal Café opened at its present location in Ganj in 1960. Its director Murli Ahuja says, “At Halwasia, the highlight used to be a live band. The present location used to be a Godrej shop run by Pratap Agencies managing director Amar Pratap Singh. He then launched Royal Café under Pratap Foods and Restaurants Pvt Ltd. I joined it as director in 1990.”Royal Café became the first joint in the city to launch basket chat. “In 1985, Moti Mahal was opened and after a few years we took over Marksmen,” he says.
Chowdhury’s Sweets
Established in 1880 by Nandlal T Gurnani, Chaudhury Sweet House is famous for its milk pudding and lal peda. Enter the shop and it wears a traditional look. The counter setting, billing, ambience, huge wall mounted refrigerators, wooden seats and typical service boys all give you a traditional feel. But, what has remained constant, in the little changes that kept happening over the years, is the quality and approach. Says Taran Gurnani, the third generation owner, “This confidence in ourselves is because of a dedicated matrix of karigars with us.”
Another feature of the restaurant was its partitioned cabins that have now been done away with. The first floor has a seating arrangement for a big gathering. That’s why it has been a pre–wedding interaction hub for families. “The concept behind this is that earlier families used to dine together and go on outings in large numbers. The nuclear family concept came much later. We have maintained the traditional ambience at the same time incorporating some cosmetic changes to move with the times,” he says.